Slip Sliding Away

In a moment of extreme bravery/stupidity, I have ventured outside in spite of the continued presence of the mad snow.

I have been forced outside by necessity, as Riho has apparently barricaded himself indoors until March and we are out of bread and milk, and as I also need to buy wool and post another Silly Hat to a customer, I have more reasons to leave the apartment than he does. I lose.

It is no longer blizzardy, but the snow continues to fall thick and fast here in Tallinn. I have watched unhappy workers from the offices opposite the apartment attempting to dig their cars out from beneath snow drifts; one of them simply walked to his vehicle and then walked away again in defeat, as I have surmised from the lonely set of footprints leading to and from the all but invisible car. Snow ploughs and diggers are out in force around the city, but they can’t keep up with the snowfall – huge white mountains, cleared from roads and footpaths, line the streets, waiting to be shifted by the flat-out snow patrol (or snow men, as I like to call them).

Walking is as close to impossible as anything can be without actually being impossible. I slither and slide my way to the Old Town, which, at a five minute walk away, takes me around half an hour to get to – mainly because I have to stop and take calming breaths every time I narrowly avoid sliding helplessly under the wheels of a bus. The Old Town – its narrow, uneven streets difficult to traverse at the best of times – is now only fit for nutcases and people with skis. I do not have any skis.

Whimpering pitifully, I take tiny nervous steps towards my destination, getting completely lost due to all the streets that already looked quite similar now being covered in snow. I take a brief detour to the Christmas Market. This is totally unintentional, and happens mainly because I am lost and also because I start an uncontrollable slide downhill and have no idea how to get back up without breaking a leg. It is easier to go with the flow. I slide gracelessly into the Square and try a different route, unable to take in the delightful Christmassyness right now because I cannot remain upright for long enough to do so.

I stagger up the steps to the wool shop, purchase my wool, and ask my friend the wool woman if she knows where I can buy some wellies. The wool woman does not know what wellies are, and we have a language barrier sort of conversation that would be very amusing under different circumstances. Glumly, I leave the wool shop, step on to the street, and promptly land on my arse.

dsc01956By the time I make it back to the city centre, I am wet and sore and have a twisted ankle, and I have reached the Death Slide path leading to the apartment, where heavy pedestrian traffic has turned the pavement into a lovely ice rink. I stand at the edge of the scary road, which has two lanes of cars, an island, two lanes of trams, an island, two lanes of cars, an island, and a little filter lane for good measure. This is usually daunting enough, but now I have to climb knee-high mountains of snow to get on to each bit of road, and am limited to very slow baby steps as opposed to my usual gallop, regardless of how many cars are skidding towards me. With a feeling of impending doom, I wait for the green man, and a joker beside me climbs on to the first snow mountain, creates a makeshift starting block out of slush, and braces himself as if waiting for the starting pistol. He says something to me. Ma ei räägi eesti keelt, I reply, and he shrugs, switching to English. That’s OK, since I wasn’t speaking Estonian, he says, embarrassingly.

Markus is from Finland, and he thinks that Tallinn covered in snow makes for a great day trip. We chat until the lights change, and then he notes the change in my tone and expression as we prepare to leap out from behind the snow mountain on to the icy road. You are OK? he asks, striding along confidently as I stagger around in an intoxicated manner. I just… I can’t… I don’t… I can’t walk!! I wail miserably. He looks at me and then grabs my bag, which might normally panic me, but I no longer care about anything other than not being killed as I cross the roads, and anyway, it is much easier to balance with my arms out at my sides and no bag weighing me down.

We make it to the first island. Would you like me to carry you? asks Markus helpfully. I force a smile. You might need to! I am joking, of course, but to my alarm he nods seriously and moves towards me as if he is going to throw me effortlessly over his shoulder. I foresee terrible injury and disaster for us both, and rush hurriedly on to the next bit of road, saying Err, no, no, you really don’t need to aaaaaaarghhhhh!, which is the point where I slide and fall on to the tram line, thus realising my worst nightmare. Markus does not hide his amusement very well, but he does grab my arm and haul me up, half-carrying, half-dragging me across to safety, where he gives me back my bag, wishes me well, and bounds cheerfully off into the snowy distance.

I have investigated the contents of the freezer and decided that I do not need to go outside for at least a week. Enough is enough.

Snow? Bah, humbug.

I can’t knit waterproof boots

I’ve been delighted with the response to my Silly Hat Shop.

If you’ve ordered one, it should be winging its way to you round about now: wear it with pride, and perhaps send me a photo of you wearing it so that I can use it for advertising purposes. Maybe with a statement of endorsement such as “My Silly Hat keeps my head so warm and cosy, and everyone stares at me when I go out wearing it!” or “My Silly Hat is so great that I ordered another one just in case someone steals it!”.

On average, people have been generously paying about 20 quid per hat, meaning I make around a tenner for each one and also that I now have a rough idea of the sort of price tag I can attach to the Silly Hats (still cheaper than in the touristy shops!) when knitting and selling them becomes my full time job. It also means that I have been able to purchase a winter coat: hurrah! Many thanks to my group of Silly Hat owners for making it possible for me to survive winter.

The coat did have to come from a second hand shop, because coats here are – in contrast to just about everything else – incredibly expensive. This is presumably because anyone who is buying a coat in the Baltics in winter is not going to be satisfied with a trendy, sparkly, casual jacket, but will instead be looking for the type of garment that makes you sweat bucketloads and adds about 20lbs to your appearance. I now own such a coat, albeit with a few scuffed bits. I am going to be nice and toasty throughout winter, with my charity shop coat, my self-made Silly Hat, and my slightly dubious scarf purchased for approximately €1 at the market.

The blanket of snow on the ground this morning, however, presented me with a new problem. I own two pairs of shoes: one pair of open-toed walking sandal things (which I think we can safely say are now in their hibernation period), and one pair of light trainers with canvassy bits at the sides to let the air in. Unfortunately, I fear that these useful canvassy bits will also be prone to letting snow in, which isn’t quite so helpful. What to do, what to do? I can – and indeed, I plan to – knit a pair of snuggly slipper-socks to wear around the apartment. But as advanced as my knitting skills have now become, even I can’t knit waterproof boots.

Let it snowAnd as excited as I am to see my weather widget’s predictions for the week ahead, it really does present me with some difficulties re: footwear. I am about to go outside to run a few errands and visit the snow-covered Old Town for the first time, wrapped up warmly, with my feet squelching soggily in my summer trainers. Maybe I should just wear the sandals, since the wetness of the feet is inevitable and the sandals will dry out much more quickly.

Quickly – someone think of something else I can sell online, so that I can afford a pair of boots….

Kissing on a park bench

I didn’t mention much about my Paris trip, mainly because it was a bit of a whirlwind visit – arrive, see as many tourist attractions as possible, attend book signing, visit a blogfriend, leave.

Having now had time to catch my breath and reflect, I have to say this: I love Paris.

Extreme temperatures aside, my only complaint is that I just didn’t have enough time there. My first couchsurfing experience was a positive one – I stayed with a couple my age, who have a beautiful apartment with gorgeous city views from their balcony. My hostess doubled up as my tour guide, and I saw a lot of things I wouldn’t have found on my own.

As for the Petite Anglaise event – wow! The realisation that Petite is actually an ordinary girl like me, who, bored in her job, discovered blogging… that was quite an eye-opener for me, with my tendency to get all star-struck and put people up on pedestals far above my head. I sat there, listening to her reading from her first book, and for the first time found myself thinking: maybe I could do it too! Maybe…

The next night, I went for (a truly delicious) dinner at Croque-Camille‘s. Naturally, I left far too early, clutching her step-by-step directions to her apartment in one sweaty hand, my half-litre of water in the other, completely prepared to get lost and dehydrated yet again. To my amazement, it didn’t happen. In fact, I got there with No Trouble Whatsoever. What’s going on? Am I growing a few strands of Common Sense in my head?

Anyway, ludicrously early for dinner, I sat down in a little park area to relax a bit and escape the heat. Three winos on a bench opposite me tried to harrass me and I stood (sat) firm, using my well-practised “I’m sorry, I don’t speak a word of French and have no idea what you’re saying” technique. Then, however, an old dude walking past happened to catch my eye. He smiled at me, and I made the grave mistake of smiling poitely back at him.

Old Dude descended upon me with the joyful grin of a long-lost friend. Ah, my little girlfriend! he exclaimed, to my alarm, doing a dramatic kiss-kiss of my cheeks. He babbled something else as I tried to shrink back in my seat, and I shrugged helplessly. Old French people are much more difficult to understand than the rest. The words are indistinguishable from each other, and to the untrained ear it just sounds like one long, gravelly growl. He finished and looked questioningly at me, and, still being polite, I explained that I didn’t really understand what he was saying. He wanted to know where I was from, and being Irish, it seemed, made me completely irresistable to him. I received more cheek kisses and one on the hand, and was incapable of doing anything about it, since I was sitting and he was standing and looming over me. So full of joy and love was his smile that to stand up and run away would have been downright heartless, leaving me riddled with guilt.

Did I want to go for a drink with him, he wondered. Erm, no. I didn’t. Maybe a coffee? Dinner? Anything of my choosing! Slightly freaked out, now, I dodged another kiss and explained that I was going to a friend’s house for dinner. Actually, I didn’t – the fear that he might decide to join me prevented me from doing this. Instead, I told him that I was waiting for someone. Undeterred, he asked if I might like to meet him later on for said drink. Erm, again, no. I am waiting for my boyfriend, I lied convincingly. Finally, he retreated, and I began to relax amidst a flow of “goodbye, so lovely to see you, take care!” type of remarks.

He caught me completely off-guard with his sudden return and kiss on the lips. I was speechless (other than an involuntary mmmmfff!), and a little embarrassed when he finally walked away and left me pretending not to notice the curious stares of the people on benches around me.

Who says the people of Paris aren’t friendly?

Head in the clouds

It would be quite a silly idea, if you were someone who had almost passed out whilst impulsively climbing the steps up some big hill in Lyon, to even consider taking on a much larger number of stairs less than a week later. No, you’d want to stay safely and contentedly on the ground, happy to look up, breathing regularly, sweating less dangerously, lungs still intact. That would be the sensible thing to do.

Still. You can’t go to Paris and not climb the Eiffel Tower, can you? The unfortunate thing about my apparent newfound enthusiasm for going up in the world is that I have chosen to do so in temperatures in excess of 30°C. This is unwise for a person who struggles with heat. A person like me, actually. It was so hot that they had huge fans spraying cold water all over the queues of waiting climbers at the bottom! Ascending stairs in the cold winter air is one thing – it can even help to warm you up, making it a beneficial exercise. But with the sun beating down on you and not a breeze to be felt on your burning skin? Probably wise to give it a miss.

So, up I went then.

And up, and up, and up…

I think I climbed quite close to the sun, as I was so hot by the time I reached the top that you could have barbequeued a couple of decent steaks on my face. Look, said my slim and agile couchsurfing hostess, looking cool and refreshed from her casual upward stroll, you can see Notre Dame over there! She pointed, and I tried to blink away the spots that were dancing merrily in front of my eyes. Oh yes, I gasped, clutching the railing with one hand and making a futile attempt to dry my forehead with the other, there it is!

Of all the traditional View of Paris from the Eiffel Tower photos that I took, impressive as that view was, my favourite shot is this one. Tiny little dots of people, safely on the ground, in full control of their breathing and with non-trembling legs. And that’s only from the first floor. The Eiffel Tower is Very Big. That’s my official travel writer’s description of the must-see landmark. Very Big. I should be getting paid a fortune for insights like these, you know.

Taking the weather with me

I realise that I’m in danger of becoming a very boring blogger who only writes about the weather, but really – it’s insane.

It was so hot today that I felt like I was living in a large oven that someone forgot to switch off. Weakly, I sat by my newly fixed laptop (hooray!!), sipping water and trying to keep breathing. Then, all of a sudden, I heard someone knocking violently on the window. This surprised me, for I am very high up in a very tall block of flats and therefore unused to visitors at the window, so I got up to investigate. It was then that I saw that the sky had apparently exploded, and the rain was blattering against the windows in a very aggressive manner. The air, incidentally,  was still hot enough to bake bread.

I checked that the windows were all closed, and then opened my bedroom door to go in and shut the permanently open windows there. I was greeted with a thump on the head, immediately followed by one on my shoulder. I feared – as you would – that someone had broken in and was launching a physical assault. But no. Apparently, chunks of ice were falling out of the sky, hurtling through my windows at dangerous speeds, and whizzing all over the place. It was out of control.

Clutching my injured head, I staggered towards the windows, and closed them, all the while reeling from a horribly persistent onslaught of Killer Hailstones. I mean, look at this.

These are no ordinary hailstones! Once I regained my senses and noted the graze on my forehead, I surveyed the damage done by approximately 30 seconds of scary thunderstorm. A river of water was running across my bedroom floor, soaking right through the carpet. Ice cubes lay scattered all over the room – including all over my bed, which is at the other side of the room from the windows. Shakily, I gathered them all up. I was going to throw them in the sink, but had second thoughts and put them in my drink instead. It was still so hot that they melted almost instantly. How could they have existed in these temperatures?! It makes No Sense Whatsoever.

And my head is killing me.

L’étranger

I’ve never been able to read maps.

You know that episode of Friends, where they’re in London, and the only way that Joey can navigate around the city is by “getting into the map”? That’s what I’m like. I have to turn it around so that the street on the map is facing the exact same direction as its real life equivalent in front of me. The words ‘north’ and ‘south’ mean absolutely nothing to me, and are more likely to make me look up and down rather than in any particular direction. It’s no wonder my geography teacher hated me.

Since arriving in Lyon, I’ve spent a significant amount of time aimlessly wandering the streets. I never intend to do this; there’s generally an aim when I start out, like “I want to go to the supermarket”, “I need to find the Métro station” or “I’m going to the internet café”. No, the aimlessness tends to creep in when I gradually realise that I’ve somehow misunderstood the map and have no idea how to get back to a place that I recognise.

It happened again today, as I started out very confidently towards the internet café that I’ve been to for four days in a row. Embarrassingly, I think my mistake was actually turning right instead of left when I stepped out of the apartment building. Whatever the reason, I ended up in a completely unfamiliar area, and could I find it on my map? Nor could I find anyone to ask for help, as apparently Lyon is even deader than Ballymena on a Sunday. Everywhere was closed, there was no one around, and the air was so hot and sticky that I was in desperate need of a drink. Abandoning all hope of finding myself on the map, I trotted down side street after side street in search of a tabac that was open for business.

After much sweating, and hopelessly lost, I ventured into the only building I could find that looked like it might sell me a drink. It was a little old man’s pub – you know, the dark, cramped kind with half a dozen oul’ boys slumped over their pints at the bar, watching the horse racing. They all looked up with interest as a red-faced twenty-something female stumbled in, clutching her map. “Err… bonjour!” I announced nervously, looking for a barman. There didn’t seem to be one, so I spoke to the room in general. “Puis-je avoir un Diet Coke s’il vous plaît?”

One little old man got off his bar stool and shuffled around to the other side of the bar. He began rummaging around behind it, with some creaking and groaning. I wondered when someone had last ordered a Diet Coke in this place, and suspected that should he succeed in finding some, the expiry date would be sometime in 1993. The little old men were all murmuring amongst themselves, sneaking furtive glances at the female in their midst. One of them said something to me, and I didn’t understand a single word of his gravelly-voiced, garbled question. They all looked expectantly at me. “Je ne parle pas français très bien,” I explained, hoping that it was in fact French that he’d been speaking.

That did it. They were fascinated now. I was beckoned towards the bar, and ushered on to a spare bar stool, where they gently but firmly demanded an account of my entire life story. A Diet Coke was triumphantly produced from the cobwebbed recesses of the bar, and poured into a carefully-wiped glass. I gulped it down gratefully, pushing a few coins across the bar. “Ahh, non, non!” chorused the little old men, and there was a great deal of murmuring once again, and fumbling for change. My drink was paid for, and with many nods and smiles I was urged to continue with the “About Me” section of my A-Level French oral exam, without the advantage of having rehearsed it in my bedroom many times throughout the week. A large golden retriever put its head on my knee and looked dolefully at me.

It was a long, long time before I made it to the internet café today.

Heading off

I find heat difficult to cope with. I’m not even talking about the sunburn factor – just the wamth itself is enough to make me spend my days groaning miserably and fanning myself ineffectually with a magazine. When I was in Nashville a few years ago I had to be rushed from air-conditioned building to air-conditioned car in the fastest possible time, lest I dehydrate and/or collapse, landing in an overheated heap on the melting tarmac, where my body would instantly sizzle and evaporate into the hazy air.

Anyway. With this in mind, I don’t know what possessed me to opt for the south of France as my chosen destination for the month of July.

I’m actually having panic attacks about it, as I sit once again in a sea of unpacked clothes and general disorganisation. Tallinn has been pretty hot, but temperatures have never gone above what I might reasonably be expected to endure in Northern Ireland. It distresses me terribly, therefore, to observe that the temperature upon my arrival in Lyon promises to be 32°C.

There’s only one thing for it, I decided yesterday, as I returned from a mild stroll in even milder temperatures and spent ten minutes gulping down water and pushing sweat-soaked locks of Mad Hair out of my eyes, the Mad Hair has got to go. And so it was that this afternoon I located an English-speaking hairdresser’s salon and marched resolutely towards it. Having less hair on my head is, let’s face it, probably my only hope of survival in 32°C. All intentions of growing it into a chic, sleek bob have been abandoned: this is an emergency situation, and it is time to return to the insane spikey look. It is a matter of life and death.

Alas! I am too late, for the hairdresser had no appointments available today. I leave tomorrow morning, with the hair equivalent of a 15-tog duvet on my head.

Woe is me. Woe.

What a difference a day makes.

Would it cheer up all you grumbling Ballymenites who moaned about the Irish weather following my previous post (“That’s one way to alienate your readers,” commented Riho, “write posts complaining about sunburn when they’re all stuck in the rain.”) if I told you that we’re all in the same (waterlogged) boat now?

Yes, today it rained. I worked at the same window, but was warmed only by yesterday’s glowing sunburn. Which, incidentally, wasn’t too bad until I forgot about it when I was vigorously drying my back after my morning shower. Again, ouch. Anyway, I worked, it rained. I finished work, it rained.

That scuppered the plans to go out and see the Victory Day/St. John’s Day party and bonfire, which made me sad because I’d heard they like to jump over the bonfire and burn witches and all sorts of fun stuff like that. However, this is Tallinn, and there’s always something entertaining going on. Sometimes right outside your window.

Like this old boy, for example.

He was either (a) an alien, confused and disorientated, just landed from a far-off planet from which he was  sent to gather data about the mysterious human race (like Mork, for example. Or John Lithgow when he was in Third Rock from the Sun), or (b) very, very drunk. Bemused, I watched as he stared at his feet for a while, raindrops pelting down on him and bouncing off his sodden clothes. I look at that picture and the only word that comes to mind is drookit.

It was unclear to me why he took off his coat and hung it on a light. To be honest, I was a little distracted by the fact that he then approached the round plastic thing at the end of a drainpipe (I don’t think I’ve ever had occasion to refer to one of those before, and I find myself at a loss for an appropriate noun), contemplated it for a long moment, stooped down, removed it, and then drank all the rainwater from it!!! By the time I came to my senses and grabbed a camera he had reverted to the original Father Jack-esque Are those MY feet? stance, so I’m afraid you’re just going to have to take my word for it.

Suitably refreshed and impossibly drookit, he walked very slowly and deliberately out of sight, possibly to purchase a new coat and/or call Orson.

Never a dull moment.

Burn, baby, burn.

I’ve just realised that I’ve managed to get my back and shoulders spectacularly sunburnt.

Please dismiss any images of lounging around soaking up the rays on a beach that that sentence might conjure up, for they would be wildly inaccurate. I’ve been working very hard today. On a Sunday, for shame. Tsk.

Of course, ‘work’ no longer means ‘sitting at a desk in a darkened room with no window for eight hours a day’. Thanks to the marvels of freelance writing, I can work where and when I choose to, which, it goes without saying, drastically transforms my attitude to it. I love my job!

Brief pause as I reflect upon exactly how many years I’ve spent longing to say that with a straight face.

And so it is that I got out of bed when I felt like it, made a nice big pot of coffee, and settled myself at the floor-to-ceiling windows of the appartment to tackle my work in the warmth of the sunlight. Feeling slightly like I was on show in a greenhouse, I threw the window wide open and enjoyed the cool breeze as I typed. As a result, a casual glance in the mirror when I stopped for lunch revealed, to my dismay, some upsettingly red portions of skin. That’s going to hurt.

I am no stranger to sunburn, being a girl of Very Little Brain who consistently fails to learn from some of life’s more painful lessons. Forever etched upon my mind is the fateful family holiday in Tenerife, where I spent at least one day (probably more – it’s all a bit blurry) in bed because of a severe case of sunstroke. It improved my Spanish slightly, as I could only move enough to switch on the TV, so I spent my time groaning feverishly and watching dubbed episodes of The X Files and Friends.

Fastforward to a few summers later, when I took a break from my A Level revision to have lunch in the back garden. Naturally, I fell asleep on the sun lounger, and with no one there to wake me up I found myself sitting some of my exams in a considerable amount of sunburnt pain. Putting on school socks over red-raw skin is not a pleasant task.

Yet still I did not learn. A camping trip to Tollymore Forest Park with a group of friends a few years ago saw me lying blissfully in the sun, uttering phrases like “Ahhh… this is the life!” before predictably falling asleep. That was dire – so badly burnt was I that I needed assistance to get up from my inflatable mattress the next morning. Poor Lollibelle had to half-carry me to the showers, where she threw me in and waited anxiously outside as I stood, swaying dangerously and propped up against the wall, underneath a lifesaving stream of cold water.

Still. Getting sunburnt whilst sitting at my ‘desk’ is such a novelty that I don’t think I can bring myself to complain.

This is the life!

Thunderbolts and lightning, very, very frightening

Well, not really. But giving the post a title like Thunderbolts and lightning… meh! would be boringly apathetic, and would fall dismally short of my normal melodramatic standards.

The weather in Estonia is a tad unpredictable, as I discovered when I opened the window in a futile attempt to get a whiff of cool air on a bright, sunny day, and had to close it rather hastily moments later when I found myself being pelted by hailstones. Hail, I tell you. In June. On a day when the temperature high was about 23 degrees Celsius. Granted, I’m no expert in meteorology, but I completely fail to understand how chunks of ice can fall from the sky when the weather is hot enough to induce sweat.

I was similarly taken aback the other day when the glaring sunlight vanished faster than you can say ‘armageddon’, and the suddenly dark sky was ripped apart by violent flashes of lightning while thunder growled angrily all around me.

Rain happens suddenly in this country. There is no warning; apparently, they employ someone to sit in a little office in the clouds and turn on a tap every now and again, just to keep the people below on their toes. That person does not like his job. I suspect that his office is more of a cubicle, and he doesn’t get very many coffee breaks. For this, he is angry, and as a result he will turn on the tap when people least expect it, prompting a sudden and inescapable downpour. Everyone is soaked. Tap man, dry and comfortable in his lonely cubicle, cackles mercilessly to himself.

I’d quite like that job. I can see how it might be entertaining. However, when you’re one of the innocent people down below, waiting impatiently for the rain to stop so that you can go out for your dinner without getting soaked and having to spend the duration of the meal squelching miserably in your seat and watching drops of rain drip into your pasta, it’s not quite so funny.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 25 other followers